• Personal Profile: Kristian Solem
  • Date of Birth: 09/24/1953
  • Point of Origin: New York City
  • Current Residence: Monrovia, California
  • Classification: Baby Boomer
  • Physical activity is my mantra. I grew up outdoors running, jumping and playing. By age 20 I was a good skier, an avid hiker, and practiced archer. My favorite sport was long distance cycling. I competed in organized events, but my best experiences were out on the road travelling light, often alone. I routinely rode 200 mile days in the scenic rolling hills of northern New Jersey and up into New York State’s Catskill Mountains. On those long rides I would find myself in a trance, a meditative state. For me, the connection of mind and body was made on a bike. Then I discovered climbing...

At the same time I was beginning a career playing classical music on the trumpet. I attended the Manhattan School of Music and went on to perform and teach in New York City. In 1975, a friend and I started the Metropolitan Brass Quartet, a wonderful group with whom I played over 300 concerts throughout the U.S. and Canada. My cycling lungs were a huge asset as a trumpet player, but the burning desire to climb conflicted with my career. I did not have the “run, jump and play” out of my system. In 1980 I resigned my seat in the Quartet, and soon after moved to California where I found myself surrounded by some of the world’s best climbing and climbers. Trumpet playing was behind me so I set about learning the craft of sound recording. My classical music training and the cool head of a seasoned performer set me apart from others in the field. I became a good music editor and later a mastering engineer. I kept my lifestyle simple and lean, and put all my free time and energy into climbing.

The 1980’s and 90’s were great years for me as a climber. I climbed El Capitan, Astroman and other important climbs in the “Granite Crucible” of Yosemite. In Joshua Tree and the Sierra Nevada I did many difficult first ascents. My love of back country climbs, with their remoteness and added logistics led me to climb Sequoia’s coveted Castle Rock Spire and to establish new climbs in Kings Canyon’s wild Gorge of Despair. I also climbed in Colorado, Nevada, South Dakota, Wyoming, Arizona and Texas. I earned a presence in the sport, with my routes and pictures in guidebooks, climbing magazines, equipment catalogues and newspapers. But fame as a climber never interested me. I thrive on mutual respect between friends and partners, and while I am proud of my accomplishments I am inspired by many who have done and will do much more.

In 2003 I turned 50. I was going full speed ahead, doing challenging climbs with the zeal of a person half my age. That year I did several climbs which have had only a handful of ascents, climbs which combine difficulty and risk in a way that makes them truly serious. Then, in 2004, I suffered a bad shoulder injury. During the grueling rehab after surgery I was introduced to Pilates for strength training. After the first session I knew this was the path for me to get back to climbing, and in a few months I was out on the stone again. I was also hooked on the Pilates Method, which became the base for all my training.

In 2006 I burned my bridges for a second time, retiring from the music business to enroll in the Pilates teacher/trainer certification program at Core Conditioning in Los Angeles (a Balanced Body University affiliate.)  During this time I began teaching Pilates and worked as a physical therapy aide at Core. In conjunction with their intense certification program, this experience of working one on one with the therapists has given me unique insights and understanding as a trainer, especially for people with a background in sports or a history of sports injuries.

Then everything changed again… On May 26th of 2007 I was climbing at a remote crag in the California Sierra. It was a beautiful day and I felt perfect. Suddenly my left hand began twitching involuntarily. Moments later I lay on the ground convulsing. I remained conscious, but I was helpless and thought I was dying. This partial seizure led to the discovery of a birth defect in my brain. It was a large malformation (called an AVM) in a difficult location. A team of neurosurgeons at UCLA zapped it with precisely focused gamma radiation (stereotactic radio surgery) and now, a year and a half later it is nearly gone. The malformation and the radiation treatment caused me to lose strength and coordination on my left side. I immersed myself in Pilates with renewed vigor and commitment. I had setbacks, but steadily improved. The enhanced proprioception, the improved posture and habits of movement, and the amazing core strength, flexibility and concentration that came from Pilates work are a large part of why I am enjoying mountain sports today.  

I know this is a bio, not a sales pitch, but I have to finish with this. If you are finding yourself where I was in 2004 - losing touch with the sports you love, failing at the training techniques that worked when you were younger, and not knowing where to turn - you will not be wasting your time to contact me. I have been there and done that. The least you’ll get is a good pep talk, but you could also choose to rediscover your body and your physicality through Pilates and related training techniques.

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