GUIDEBOOK UPDATES AND CORRECTIONS
The Nautilus: So the book’s not even out yet and I stand accused of sandbagging. 🙂 The crack at the start of the route, listed as 5.12b, could be more like 5.12c. The exit moves, described as height dependent, could be hard 5.12.
Don Juan Wall: At the top of the third pitch (not counting the Thin Ice approach pitch) most climbers finish the climb by doing a nice under-cling out around a corner and up. I neglected to point out in the description that the obvious wide crack out the roof above provides a burly direct finish. I haven’t done it, and two climbers I trust tell me it’s 5.10c/d. Another climber whose opinions I respect says it’s much harder than Gorilla Warfare.
Sidewalk Magic: Dan McHale has corrected me as to the start of this fun climb. Dan and Joe Brown started exactly where Greg Bender and Phil Warrender started up Black Magic two years later. The routes diverge at the ledge at the top end of the Horses Head. The misunderstanding arose from a topo I copied from the old lookout before it burned.
Overlooked route: Herb Laeger told me that he did a route to the left of Pinhead, on the NW Face of the Sorcerer. Not much is known but he says it’s stiff 5.10.
Name Change: Patrick Paul and Richard Leversee did a route on Voodoo Dome to the left of the classic “White Punks on Dope.” In a play of words they called their line “Black Dudes on Welfare.” Richard contacted me recently asking that I change the name of the climb in future editions of the book, which of course I will. He regrets any offence which may have been taken. Meant as a harmless quip in 1981, this name has not stood the test of time. Pat and Richard have re-named the climb “The Voodoo That We Do.”
Liquid Sky Retro-bolted: Someone decided to take it upon themselves to “improve” Liquid Sky. The first belay has been moved down, shortening the first pitch and requiring a new belay to be added halfway through the second. This situation will be rectified.